by Anne Watcher on Friday February 8th, 2013 at 10:47am
Part of the experience of living in a different country is to push past your comfort zone. (At least for us it is!) Now I know that this subject is not scary or dangerous but is doesn't have to be and it still can make you "think outside the box." What am I talking about? Beans, yes beans and the fact that cooking them yourself can be a whole new adventure for some of us.
The other years that we have lived in Central America I always bought my beans at the store just like at home. It was easy and quick and actually quite tasty. This year however in Leon I discovered that you could purchase freshly cooked beans from local women selling them from their homes.
As you are walking around the streets just look for the sign "frijoles cocidos", go up to the door and ask for C$10 or C$20 worth of beans. The lady will return with a bag of beans, ready for you to take home and make some amazing pinto gallo! Point of interest--they really like you to take your own container, thus cutting the cost of the bag and reducing garbage. Also it makes you feel so "Nica" walking home with a dish of beans!
This worked well for me until 2 weeks ago when my local lady for some reason was not there! So although I had been told that they were difficult little things to cook to the right consistency, I thought how hard could this be?? My sister-in-law back home makes great baked beans, starting with dried white beans. Could dried red beans be more difficult?? Off to the internet to do some research.
Long story short, they are quite easy to cook, extremely economical to purchase and actually very satisfying to know that you did it yourself. I hope I haven't put anyone out of business by cooking my own, but I'm hooked! Black beans, look out, I'm coming for you next!!
The how to do it part:
- Soak rinsed beans overnight or 6-8 hours using 1 part beans to 3 parts cold water. You can also do a quick soak by bringing beans to a boil, turning off the heat and letting the beans sit for 2 hours.
- Drain off the water that the beans soaked in and cover the beans with fresh water by one inch. Place on the stove and after bringing to a boil, reduce heat so that the beans just simmer. This way the water doesn't evaporate too quickly. Add water as needed to keep the beans covered.
- DO NOT add salt to the cooking beans. This will make them tough. However you can add other flavour enhancers like bacon, cumin, garlic or jalapeno. The kind of dish you will be using the beans in may determine what enhancer you use.
- As the beans cook a scum will form on the top of the water. Some say to take it off, others say it is not necessary. To be honest, there was hardly any that formed on mine so I didn't worry about it.
- Simmer until beans are tender, usually about 2 hours. Beans are done when easily mushed with a fork or between two fingers (I prefer the latter).
- Cool and store for use later. I keep the liquid on the beans. It adds flavour to your pinto gallo for sure. If using in other dishes like chili, you may want to drain the beans.
- ENJOY!
by Anne Watcher on Saturday February 2nd, 2013 at 11:33am
Here in Leon we are fortunate to have 4 daily markets where fresh fruits and vegetables can be purchased. The smallest of them is the one located in Sutiava, El Mercadito. It is a busy little spot and is frequented by many on a daily basis.
This market (as well as the other 3) provides more than produce with dry goods, home basics, health care products and clothing easily accessible to all visitors. You can also purchase a fresh cooked meal to take home to the family. Here you will also find awesome yuca chips, fresh made and easily transported to eat on your way to the ocean. This is my first stop when we arrive at the market!
The one thing that this market has ahead of the others is the fresh fish from Poneloya and Las Penitas. Here is where the fishermen bring their catch to be sold. The night's catch is packed on ice and ready for you to take home to make some fish tacos or perhaps shrimp alfredo. Although fresh fish may be purchased at the other markets, most agree that unless you go to the coast and buy directly from the fishermen, this is the best place to make your purchase.
Another important function of this market is that it is where you catch the bus to the coast, the beach towns of Poneloya and Las Penitas. Leaving on the hour this bus is a life line for many locals that live along the highway and back in along the rural roads. With their purchases loaded either on the racks inside or on the roof, they make their trek home. Often when they get off family members are waiting to help them home with their goods. If you forget something you will have to do without until the next trip because there are no supermarkets after you leave Sutiava. It makes for an interesting ride for those on board!!
The busy entrance on Calle Ruben Dario. Many buses and camionettas also stop here to let people on or off.
Dried beans and rice as well as other groceries are available for purchase.
Freshly made "refrescos"-- a very popular purchase.
There is always an endless supply and variety of fresh fruit. One thing that is nice is that you can buy just one of anything as most items are priced per piece.
Located on the west end of Leon, on Calle Ruben Dario. You can't miss it!!
by Anne Watcher on Tuesday January 22nd, 2013 at 6:59pm
Granada, like most cities that cater to tourists, has an endless choice of accommodations. If you are in the mood for a quiet stay at a guesthouse, you may find the La Siesta Guest House to be a great choice for an economical overnight stay as we did.
La Siesta is centrally located - just a comfortable walk downtown or to the Calzeda. Greeting us at the front door, was Anna with her smiling face and infectious enthusiasm as she directed us into our room, and served up fresh juice to refresh us while we continued the sign-in process. The rest of the staff - including the owners Marcela and Boris - were very friendly, conversational, and helpful as well.
We were impressed to find our room to be very clean and quite comfortable. On waking up each morning, we headed to the tables in the seating area, for our preordered breakfast - where there was a choice of omelet, the house specialty French Crepe, or local fruits - - - all for a reasonable cost of $3 USD. Filling and Yummy!!
La Siesta offers private, double and triple rooms, with either shared or private bathrooms. Bathrooms are large, water is warm and soap is supplied. Soft fluffy towels are also included. Although air conditioning is not available, we found there to be good air flow - as well as fans to keep us comfy.
Triple room with private bath
View from our room, looking out onto the open air courtyard
There are comfortable chairs scattered throughout the home for guests to kick back and relax in. A sitting room with television is also available for guests, where you will find a well stocked book shelf. When we stayed the Nicaraguan National Baseball Championships between Granada and Managua were being broadcast on TV and so we shared a little in the excitement of that. (FYI - Granada won and moves on to Chinandega for the final series)
Hut area in the center courtyard
To contact La Siesta just email them at: lasiestagranada@gmail.com. I found that they answer their emails quickly so you aren't left waiting.
They are located on Calle el Almendro, de los Bomberos, 1c al norte, 25 mts al este.
Website : www.lasiestagranada.com
by Anne Watcher on Tuesday January 22nd, 2013 at 5:28pm
This past weekend Rob and I returned to Granada with our daughter Rachel who is visiting us from Ontario. We wanted her to experience this beautiful and vibrant city. While we were there we thought we would go by our old neighbours and surprise them with a visit. I think "shocked them" would be a more appropriate term. There were instant hugs and smiles all around.
Almost immediately Juan went into the house and returned with his photo album which he opened to show us the pictures we had taken and given them of all of us when we were there 2 years ago. Juan and Thelma still look the same and Juan is still always working on some sort of project. The girls have grown of course but they did remember us.
It was so great to see them and be able to converse a bit more with them in our somewhat improved Spanish. Here is a link to the journal entry from two years ago - /journal/juan-y-thelma.html
Juan, Thelma and the girls
Juan pointed to the his favourite picture, the one he took of Rob kissing me
by Anne Watcher on Friday January 18th, 2013 at 8:41am
On the west edge of Leon is the indigenous community called Sultiava. It is here that we found the ruin of Veracruz Church built in the 16th century in an effort to get the native Chorotega people to abandon their beliefs and convert to Christianity. Although never totally converting the natives did allow these buildings to become a center for their spiritual activities.
It was built in a traditional manner with a raised section at the front for services. It was later abandoned due to lack of space and the present day Iglesia San Juan Bautista de Subtiava was built just a block away. It was destroyed by a volcano in 1835, rebuilt and then eventually abandoned and natural decay took over. It was further damaged during the revolution of 1979.
Today it is fenced off to prevent any further damage and it is free to enter and wonder around. When we arrived 2 large barking dogs greeted us at the gate. Soon Jose Francisco came out from the pulperia and calmed the dogs and let us in. It was a little scary as the dogs followed us for a while but I guess they were just letting us know they were in charge.
The grounds are still used today for cultural celebrations. It is located just southwest of Iglesai San Juan Bautista. No entrance fee is charged, but we did purchase drinks from the pulperia.
The pulperia beside the fenced off ruins.
You can still see the raised front section and the center columns used for support. This is the view from the original entrance.
While the people may have abandoned the building, the plant life is flourishing here.
It is amazing how much of the original wall is still intact after all these years of neglect and natural disasters.
Mural on the side wall of the pulperia depicting the simple early life of the Chorotega Indians.
Another mural showing the start of the construction.
Jose Francisco
